Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek

The last minutes of the flight are unforgettable: the aircraft banks between forested ridges, farmhouses appear close enough to count the prayer flags, and the wheels touch down in a valley barely wider than the runway. Outside the small arrivals hall your Roam Bhutan guide is waiting with a white khadar scarf, the traditional welcome, and your vehicle and driver for the days ahead.

Walk down through Rinpung Dzong, the "fortress on a heap of jewels", whose galleries and courtyards look out over the whole valley, and cross Nyamai Zam, the covered wooden bridge beneath it. Above the dzong, the round watchtower of Ta Dzong holds the National Museum, a good first look at masks, thangkas and the natural history of the kingdom. End on Paro's single main street of painted shopfronts. In the evening, your trek guide checks your gear and walks you through the route.

Drive: airport to hotel, 10–30 minutes
Overnight: Paro

Today is the walk to Paro Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest. Legend says Guru Rinpoche flew to this cliff on the back of a tigress in the 8th century to meditate in a cave; the monastery was built around it in the 1690s. The trail climbs about 900 m through blue pine and hanging prayer flags. Most people take two to three hours to reach the top, stopping at the halfway cafeteria for tea and the first clear view across the gorge.

The climb to about 3,120 m and back is the best possible preparation for the trek. Take it steadily, drink plenty of water, and enjoy an easy afternoon — perhaps a visit to Kyichu Lhakhang and an early night.

Hike: about 5–6 hours return
Overnight: Paro

A relaxed morning, then drive to the capital. Start high above the city at Buddha Dordenma, a seated bronze Buddha more than fifty metres tall, gilded and gazing down the length of the valley. From there, drop to the Motithang preserve to meet the takin, Bhutan's national animal — legend says the saint Drukpa Kunley made the first one from the leftovers of his lunch, sticking a goat's head on the bones of a cow.

In the evening, the crew arrives to load the gear. Pack a daypack with warm layers, rain jacket, water and snacks for tomorrow — the horses carry everything else.

Drive: Paro to Thimphu, about 1 hour
Overnight: Thimphu

Drive south of Thimphu to the road-head near Genekha, where the horses are loaded. The trail climbs through forest of oak, rhododendron and fir, with occasional clearings where herders graze their cattle in summer.

Camp is in a high meadow. After tea, walk a little higher above camp to help your body acclimatise, then come back down to sleep — the old mountaineers' rule of climbing high and sleeping low.

Walk: about 5–6 hours
Overnight: Camp

Climb over the first high pass of the trek, where the views open up across the Dagala range. On a clear morning a long chain of Himalayan peaks lines the northern horizon.

Descend to camp beside one of the glacial lakes that give the trek its name, surrounded by yak pastures. The herders who spend the summer here may stop by the camp to say hello — your guide will translate.

Walk: about 5–6 hours
Overnight: Camp

A rest day for acclimatisation, or a free day to explore. Walk to a ring of smaller lakes nearby, scramble up a ridge for the view, or simply sit by the water and watch the light change on the hills.

Your crew keeps the tea coming. In the evening your guide checks how everyone is feeling at this height before the next high crossing. Anglers can watch the trout rising in the evening, and photographers will want to be up early for the reflections of the ridges in the still water.

Optional walks: 2–4 hours
Overnight: Camp

The longest and highest day: over two passes of around 4,500 m, with long views on both sides. The going is steady rather than technical, but the altitude slows everyone down — walk at your own pace.

Descend through open country to camp near a herders' settlement. The stars at this height, on a clear night, are extraordinary. Your trek leader sets a steady rhythm and waits at the top of each pass, and the cook usually sends hot juice and biscuits ahead for the summit break.

Walk: about 6–7 hours
Overnight: Camp

Leave the high country behind and descend through rhododendron forest to Talekha, a small monastery in a clearing above the Thimphu valley. The monks may invite you in to see the shrine.

Camp nearby, with the lights of the capital appearing far below as night falls — the last night under canvas. The descent is long on the knees, so walking poles are a real help today. The forest here is full of birdsong, and in spring the rhododendrons turn the slopes red and pink.

Walk: about 5–6 hours, mostly downhill
Overnight: Camp

A short walk down through forest to the road near Simtokha, where your vehicle is waiting. Say goodbye to the horsemen and the camp team.

Drive to Paro for a hot shower, a proper bed and a celebratory dinner with your guide — you have walked across one of the least-visited ranges in western Bhutan. Dinner tonight is on us: a chance to thank the team, swap photographs and tell the stories of the trail while they are still fresh.

Walk: about 2–3 hours, then drive about 1½ hours
Overnight: Paro

Have a slow breakfast with the valley outside the window, and a last cup of suja, the salty butter tea you have either grown to love or learned to politely refuse. Your guide and driver take you to Paro airport, help with check-in and say goodbye — often with a promise to see you again for the next valley on your list.

Trekking again one day? Ask us about the longer high-altitude routes of the north.

Drive: hotel to Paro airport, 10–30 minutes